After living in our home for a few years, we knew we needed more storage. One of the ways we decided to accomplish that was by adding semi-custom built-ins to our back family room.
These semi-custom built-ins have quickly become one of our favorite projects we’ve tackled. You can see how they fit into the finished room in our Family Room Makeover, where I share the design decisions that transformed the space. Not only are they beautiful to look at, but they’re incredibly functional. More importantly, they added the architectural character our back family room had been missing.
Why We Decided to Build Semi-Custom Built-Ins
When we started remodeling our back family room, one of the first decisions we made was to add semi-custom built-ins along the back wall. We knew we wanted to build something that fit the space rather than buying freestanding shelves for a few reasons.
While free standing shelves are a great alternative to building something custom, we chose to build in order to meet the goals we had for the space. Building allowed us to tailor the dimensions to our room, maximize the available space, and create storage that fit exactly how we planned to use it. With freestanding shelves, it would have been harder to find pieces that fit our wall exactly while making the most of the available space.
Another goal of ours with this home has always been to add character and interest where possible and when it makes sense. Adding semi-custom built-ins was one way we could add in that character and give this room a focal point.
The reason we decided to build them ourselves instead of going the full custom route was to try and save some money. Since this was our first time attempting a project like this, we used pre-made cabinets for the base and built the upper portions ourselves.
The Design
To create the design for our built-ins, I started where I usually start, Pinterest. I have a dedicated Built-In board where I’ve saved images of bookcases and built-ins for inspiration. When saving pins, I look for interesting trim details and finishes, creative layouts, as well as how they are styled when complete. This helps me focus in on the design details I gravitate towards. It also helps me think through the layout, especially when we have tricky areas to work around.
After I’d combed through my board and made note of the styles and trim details I liked, I started sketching out a rough draft. There were a few must-haves on our list when it came to layout.
First, we needed some closed storage to hide things like paper products, video game controllers and cords, and other odds and ends. Open shelves were equally important so we had a place to display our books and collections. Mike had also just purchased a new TV for this room, so the middle section needed to accommodate it.
We also planned for adjustable shelves so we could move them around as our needs changed, along with a shelf above the TV to hold Mike’s PlayStation console.
The most important goal we had for the design, though, was to make them look custom. We wanted them to feel like they had been a part of this room when the house was built. To do this, there were a few things we did when building them.
How We Made Our Built-Ins Look Custom
The key to making something look custom usually comes down to a couple of things: the planning that goes into the design and the trim and finish details.
When it came to figuring out the layout, we started by measuring the length, depth, and height of the wall they were going on. Once we had these dimensions, we were able to shop for the base cabinets.
Why Upper Kitchen Cabinets
To make this easier on ourselves, we purchased pre-made unfinished upper kitchen cabinets from Home Depot to use as the base. We chose to use upper kitchen cabinets because the original depth of the wall that separates this room from the kitchen was roughly 8 inches.
We knew lower kitchen cabinets would be too deep for this room, scale-wise, since they are usually 24 inches deep. Upper cabinets, however, would work with a minor adjustment.
The upper cabinets we purchased were 12 inches deep, but the wall separating the kitchen from the family room was only about 8 inches wide. If we had left the wall as-is, part of the cabinet and countertop would have been visible when looking into the family room from the kitchen. Visually, it would have made the built-ins feel more like an afterthought than part of the original design.
To solve this, we built the wall out using 2 x 4s and drywall until it matched the depth we needed. This allowed the countertop to have the slight overhang we wanted while ensuring that, from the kitchen, you only see the finished wall, not the side of the cabinets.
Planning The Bottom Layout
Next, we needed to determine how many base cabinets would fit along the wall. We looked at the width of the available pre-made cabinets and compared them to the length of the wall. We also knew we wanted about a 2 inch gap between each cabinet and factored that into our calculation. This two-inch gap served two purposes.
First, it allowed us to add a narrow piece of wood between each cabinet so they could be securely connected. Second, it gave us room to add a decorative trim piece to the front, another detail that helped the cabinets feel custom-built for the space.
After reviewing the dimensions, we knew we could fit 4 cabinets plus have 2 inches of space between each. This would allow us to have symmetry on the bottom but that left us with around 20 inches of unplanned space. Not enough for another cabinet but also too big to just fill with a trim piece.
Not wanting to waste any space we decided to add two open shelf cabinets on either side. This gave us extra display space and gave the built-ins a more custom layout.
Additional Lower Cabinet Details
Another detail that helped these cabinets look custom was build a base for the lower cabinets to sit on. This was so we could run the base moulding across the front of the cabinets. To do this, we had to figure out the height of the base moulding we were using and make sure the moulding wouldn’t interfere with the operation of the cabinet door when installed.
The height of the frame and plywood top gave us enough clearance to install the base moulding without interfering with the cabinet doors. Adding the base moulding across the bottom of the cabinets is another little detail that helped make the cabinets look like they had always been there.
Planning The Top Layout
Once the lower cabinets were built, it was much easier to determine the size and layout of the upper portion since the lower cabinets drove the overall design. As with the lower cabinets, we had a few things we had to take into account when building the upper shelves.
First, we needed a section wide enough to accommodate the TV Mike had just purchased. It was slightly larger than the previous one but we had calculated the size we could fit before making that purchase and still keep a bit of symmetry between the top and bottom.
Once we had determined the width of the middle section and added the same two-inch spacing on either side, we could calculate the remaining sections with the open shelves.
When planning the open shelves, I thought through the various things we wanted to display and made sure the spacing between shelves could accommodate these items. To give ourselves some flexibility though we did make them adjustable so we could change them if needed at any time.
Additional Upper Cabinet Details
Just like the bottom, there were a few things we needed to consider when finishing the top portion to ensure it also looked custom made for the space.
The first was figuring out how much space we needed for lighting. We knew we wanted to add picture lights above the built-ins in the future, so we calculated enough space at the top to accommodate them.
We were also running two pieces of flat trim around the ceiling. These pieces hide the seam where the bead board ceiling meets the wall, giving the room a cleaner, more finished look. Because that trim also continued across the top of the built-ins, we needed to account for it when determining the height of the upper boxes.
Once we had determined how much closed space we needed at the top of the built-ins, we were able to calculate the height of the open sections with the shelves.
To add a little more character, and use up some leftover bead board, we installed the same bead board from the ceiling on the back of the upper built-ins.
Selecting the Cabinet Color
From the get go we knew we wanted to create a space that felt cozy and welcoming. To me, that meant going with a deep, rich color on the built-ins. I found myself continually drawn to Secret Garden by Sherwin Williams. It’s a beautiful, deep, rich, moody green that is pretty in the daytime but really comes alive at night.
One of the reasons I love this color is that it absorbs light instead of reflecting it around the room. That’s what gives the space that cozy, cocoon-like feeling in the evenings. Its low LRV (Light Reflectance Value) is what creates that effect. At night, this room almost feels velvety. The deep green softens everything, and the light from the lamps creates little pools of warmth throughout the room.
This is also where lamps really shine. Instead of competing with bright walls, the darker paint softens their warm glow, making the whole room feel even cozier. Because the light isn’t bouncing around the room as much, you can layer multiple lamps to create plenty of light for reading without losing that intimate atmosphere.
What We’d Do Different The Next Time
Whenever we tackle a project like this, we try to think through every detail ahead of time so the finished result is as close as possible to what we envisioned. For our first attempt, I think we did pretty well but there are a few things we would do differently if we were doing these again.
Lighting
The first is add additional outlets or hardwire for picture lamps. We had the forethought to have an electrician move the outlet on this wall up closer to where the TV would be. We wanted an easy way to plug in the TV and Mike’s PlayStation without having cords visible. The outlet sits directly behind the TV, keeping all of the cords concealed.
I did think about adding hardwire for picture lamps but decided it wasn’t a necessity. We could just add rechargeable lamps instead. Now that we’ve lived with the picture lights I wish we had gone the extra mile and hardwired for them instead. Having them on a switch would make us use them far more often. Now, I only turn them on for short periods in order to conserve the charge.
In keeping with the electrical theme, I wish we would have added another outlet on either side where the open shelves are. This would make it easier to add in lamps and get that layered lighting effect we are always after. Right now, I have a rechargeable lamp on one side and a hardwired lamp on the other. The hardwired lamp plugs into an outlet on the adjacent wall, which means the cord is still visible. I’ve been able to disguise it with furniture, but adding outlets inside the built-ins would have been a much cleaner solution.
Game Console Shelf
Another thing we’d change is the placement of the TV and upper game console shelf. The plan was to place the upper shelf low enough so Mike’s PlayStation could sit upright and fit within that space.
When we measured the space needed for both the PlayStation and the TV, we miscalculated and ended up mounting the TV slightly too high.
To keep the spacing above and below the TV looking balanced, we had to make a compromise. We raised the upper shelf slightly, which meant Mike’s PlayStation now sits horizontally instead of upright. It isn’t ideal because the console is wider than the depth of the shelf and hangs over the front edge.
We would love to fix this but it would require a couple of changes that we don’t have the patience for right now. First, we would need to move the mount for the TV down a smidge so we could move the TV itself down. Installing the TV was tricky enough the first time. Then, we would need to drill some additional shelf holes below the upper shelf in order to move it down as well.
Trim Alignment
The last thing that I wish we could change is the alignment of some of the trim pieces. This was another thing we miscalculated or didn’t think through all the way.
When figuring out the width of the TV section we thought we had accounted for enough space to continue the lower trim piece up vertically so the lower and the upper were visually aligned.
I can’t remember exactly where we went wrong, but I think we forgot to account for the trim overhang. We designed the upper shelves so they sit behind the vertical trim pieces, creating a cleaner finished look. That small detail changed the alignment more than we anticipated.
In order to keep the overhang between the upper cabinets the same, the upper trim pieces sit a little more towards the middle on either side. So when you are standing in front of the built-ins and looking at them straight on, the lower trim pieces don’t line up exactly with the upper trim pieces.
It drove me a bit insane in the beginning, but I’ve learned to embrace it as one of those quirky details that reminds us these were built by us.
Are Semi-Custom Built-Ins Worth the Work?
For us, absolutely. The project took us a few years to complete, but that’s only because life got in the way and we weren’t in a hurry. The time we invested was well worth what they bring to the space.
When we finally finished our semi-custom built-ins, they became one of our favorite features in our home. They give us the storage we needed, a place for our books and collections, and the architectural character this room had been missing from the day we moved in. They’ve shifted the way the space feels and how we use it now. More than anything, they helped transform this room into a space that feels like a true reflection of our style and the way we want to live in our home.
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